Rods

I've been selling lure rods since 2010 when we opened our first little shop in St Merryn. Since decades before that, I was always in love with using and trying different fishing rods across all different types of fishing that I do.

Lure rods have developed and advanced so much over that time.

From when a spinning rod was simply a spinning rod to now where we have different lengths actions powers and so many other variations between the styles of lure rod that we might use for different applications. Understanding what you need in each situation as well as trying to pick through the minefield of rod types and styles can be really difficult. But whether you are a bass angler, or a freshwater predator fan or in love with LRF, I've rods here. That will suit all types of lure fishing. And don't forget, if you need any help at all, please feel free to pop your details into the Rod Finder form, and I will send you over some personal recommendations.

Casting weight

Casting-weight ratings are useful, but frustratingly they cannot always be trusted in exactly the same way from one rod to another. There is no useful rule saying a rod will feel best at a certain point in the middle of its stated rating. It depends on the individual rod, how it has been built and how it recovers.

A rod that is too soft for the weight being cast can start to feel a bit spongy. Distance drops off, control goes with it and things just do not feel right. Going heavier than recommended also risks putting too much strain on the rod and can lead to breakages, so matching the casting weight properly is essential.

The opposite can happen with very stiff rods and light lures. A rod needs to bend during the cast to help propel the lure seawards, and if there is not enough weight to compress it, the angler is not getting that help from the blank's recovery.

For mainstream bass fishing, casting weights are far more varied than people sometimes think. Around 20g to 50g covers a lot of it, with occasional uses above or below that depending on the rod and what you are doing.

Action and power

For the majority of UK lure fishing, I would say a regular fast or fast action is the most versatile place to start. A fast action works mostly in the upper tip section, with a very fast rod working right up in the final quarter. That gives you more sensitivity through the rod and generally a firmer hook set.

Medium and slow actions bend through more of the blank. A medium rod bends through the top half before stiffening towards the butt, which can give a nice mix of casting accuracy and power. A slower action bends further down towards the reel and can be less likely to pull a hook hold, although you do lose some lure vibration and bite feel.

Power is simply how much weight it takes to bend a rod. A heavier-power rod needs more weight to achieve the same bend as a lighter one. It is one of the reasons two rods with similar casting ratings can still feel completely different in use.

Rod weight and balance

Rod weight is worth looking at, but balance matters more than the figure written on the blank. Depending on its length and style, a lure rod might sit anywhere around 100g to 160g. A light rod that feels badly balanced can soon feel more tiring than a slightly heavier one that sits nicely with the reel fitted.

Without a reel on the rod, nobody should expect it to balance around the reel seat. Once the reel is fitted, the real balance point will usually come back somewhere in the first 10cm in front of it. A heavy reel on a light rod can bring that point very close to the reel seat, while a light reel on a heavier rod will leave it further forward.

I would not set expectations too high about getting the balance point exactly onto the reel seat. It is nice when it feels close, but with most lure rods it is just not achievable in reality. I have used balancing weights in the butt before, and they can make a rod feel lighter through better balance, although I must admit they can deaden the feeling through the blank a little as well.

Length

Longer rods can give you more tip speed when casting, which with a fast recovering blank generally means more distance. It is not completely black and white though. A shorter rod with very fast recovery can still outcast a longer one with a much sloppier, softer feel.

Shorter rods give you more control of the lure. There is less carbon and material between your hand and the rod tip, so vibration comes back through the blank more easily as well. Anywhere bottom contact or really precise lure movement matters, I would generally be going shorter.

For bass, rods around 8'6" to 9' cover the widest spread of conditions. That is bass specific though. Going down towards 7' can be brilliant at close range, especially where maximum feel and control matter more than distance.

Rods over 9' have plenty of uses too. They suit surf fishing, deeper water and more exposed coast, but also anywhere you need more distance, reach or control from a height above the water. They can even help you get around bankside foliage or structure, so it is never just a case of putting every longer rod into the same category.

LRF rods

Most LRF rods used now run from 6' to around 7'6". Eight-foot rods are useful, but more rarely needed for most people. LRF rods generally cast up to 10g, and getting a reel that balances the rod properly makes a real difference.

For sea fishing, especially from harbour walls, I strongly believe a rod of 7' or longer is usually the sensible choice. It helps keep the tip closer to the water and the line out of the wind. It also makes it easier to pull a hooked fish outwards and away from the wall.

Short rods are great fun and give you the feeling that every movement of the lure is directly in your hand. They are especially nice at water level and at very close range. From higher ground they do have limitations though, so around 7' can be the most versatile choice if you are not completely sure where you will be fishing.

Boat and crossover rods

For boat lure fishing, a shorter rod is generally the way to go. Around 7' to 8' is ideal.

A 10' rod rated around 2oz to 3oz can cover both bait fishing and lure fishing if that is genuinely what you want to do. For a complete beginner wanting to catch mackerel one minute and throw a metal lure the next, it is fine I suppose. It will always be a compromise from a lure-fishing perspective though, as it is a heavy rod for that job.

Choosing a lure rod

Lure fishing rods vary so much today. There are rods for all sorts of different jobs, from LRF through to heavier pike fishing.

I've seen a lot come and go over the years and helped literally thousands of anglers choose their new favourite. If you are not sure where to start, ask me before you buy.